Firewood: Beginners Tips for Harvesting, Seasoning and Splitting Your Own

A homesteader shares beginner tips on how to harvest, season cut and split your own firewood for greater self-sufficiency and a cozier home this winter.

About two years ago, we invested in a wood-burning stove for our home.

It wasn’t cheap, but with the rise in electricity costs and our interest in greater self-sufficiency and preparedness, we wanted to ensure we had a backup heat source during the chilly Appalachian mountain winters.

In addition to figuring out the best stove model, location, renovation requirements and installation, we also had to learn about firewood. And there is a lot to learn!

Maybe it's because I grew up a city slicker, but I experienced a steep learning curve about what makes good firewood and how to get the most heat out of our stove.

In this article, I'll share what I've learned about firewood, from identifying the best tree species for to seasoning firewood and a few essential tools to help make harvesting and splitting much easier.

Even if you don’t plan to harvest and split your own firewood, many of these tips apply to firewood sourcing.

Tip # 1: Get to Know Your Local Tree Species (for firewood)

My family lives in the middle of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Western North Carolina.

It is made up of temperate forests with a high diversity of tree species, most of which are hardwood and make excellent firewood.

In our forests, for example, there is no lack of hickory, many oaks, cherry, all kinds of walnuts and one of my favorites, black locust.

Whether you have a large property from which to harvest your own wood, scavenge (more on this later) from fallen or already felled trees or purchase from a local firewood business or arborist, knowing what's available gives you a leg up.

Woods of all kinds have BTU (heat value) ratings based on the density or hardness of the wood.

For example, oak burns long and hot, which is ideal for keeping a fire going, while tulip poplar burns hot and quick, which is great for starting a fire.

Get to know what grows in your area so you know what is available.

A simple online search will help you understand what is in your bioregion and what tree species predominate in your area.

Here is a good map to point you in the right direction. You can also contact your local extension or forestry service; they can help.

If you plan to harvest your own firewood on your property, get familiar with what you have.

If you don’t have the time or patience to identify all the tree species on your rural property, it would be a worthwhile investment to hire a good arborist or forester who may be able to help survey your land to know what you have.

You can also try contacting your local extension and see if they have someone on staff to help you.

Then, you can determine what tree species are good for firewood by referencing a heat values for firewood chart, such as this one from Utah State University.

Tip #2: Plan Ahead (Properly Seasoned Firewood)

Whether you split your own firewood or buy from a local business, plan to get it early.

Firewood will produce the most heat when properly seasoned (dried), which can take time, but not always.

My favorite book on all aspects of firewood, from chopping, stacking and drying is Norwegian Wood – Chopping, Stacking and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way by Lars Mytting.

Many Scandinavian countries are in the top 10 coldest places humans live. So, if anyone knows about firewood, it's the Scandinavians.

This book demystifies many myths about seasoned wood.

For example, the book discusses is that wood shouldn’t be too dry.

Mytting says, “[when] Insufficiently dry, firewood will be difficult to burn, give far less heat, cause local pollution and glaze the stove pipe – creating a greatly increased risk of chimney fires.”

Coming from a cold climate, I would take his word for it.

So, if you chop your own wood, how do you know it's dry enough? Mytting states, “Good firewood should be hard, dry and clean.”

One method described to determine proper dryness is to knock two logs together. "If dry, there will be a hard ringing sound; if damp, a dull, unresonant thud.”

This isn’t perfect, but it gets you closer to knowing what's what.

The next question is how long should wood dry?

Below we discuss the importance of proper stacking for best drying.

As for the question of the length of drying, it depends. The idea that firewood needs at least 1 to 2 years may be a good rule of thumb, but it isn’t 100% accurate.

Mytting says the 1 to 2-year rule stems from the presumption wood hasn’t been chopped immediately after felling, the tree has been felled too late in the year or it's not stacked in a well-ventilated area.

He goes on to say that short 12-inch logs can be ready (with the exception of oak) in 2 months, but all the conditions must be perfect.

If good drying isn’t achieved, remember that short logs always dry faster than longer ones, or you can split thinner logs that expose the log to more surface area.

Now let's talk about proper wood stacking.

Again, the book goes into great detail, but there are a few simple tips.

First, make sure the wood is stored in a well-ventilated area. Ventilation is preferred to heat in the drying process.
Expose as much surface area as possible to wind and light, and ensure it is protected from rain by covering the top.
1. In addition, be sure to raise the stack off the ground to enhance air circulation (and keep snakes out!).
Lastly, when stacking the wood, if a mouse can fit through the pieces stacked, know that should provide enough airflow.

The practice of making firewood is an art.

If you want the full skinny on stacking and drying firewood (and almost everything else), pick up a copy of Mytting’s book. You will be impressed by all there is to know about this process, even if you've been at this for a while.

Tip #3: Get The Right Size Chainsaw

Last season, the power company cut down an old White Oak in my neighbor's yard because it was too close to the power lines.

Despite my lack of experience, I was emboldened not to let that perfectly good tree go to waste.

Our neighbor was more than happy to let me deal with it as it saved her the cost of removing the dead tree.

The oak was about 2 feet in diameter and about 30 feet long, and I counted close to 80 rings.

I figured I could quickly buck the tree with my chainsaw (a Husqvarna 240) and then split the rounds into the size I wanted.

Bucking is the process of cutting up a log into rounds that will then split into firewood.

Perfect, easy and I figured I'd be done in just a few hours.

I was wrong.

I quickly learned that bucking was taking a long time (and when you have kids to look after and other family/business/farm responsibilities, time is at a premium)

After 2 hours of running the chainsaw, I felt like I was getting nowhere. I only got to buck about 4-15 inch long rounds, had about 20 feet of tree to go and was tired.

I knew this wasn’t right, so I took a step back. After a bit of research, I learned two important things.

First, my chain wasn’t sharp…duh! So, I learned how to sharpen a chain.

Second, my saw was intended for light tree trimming and small trees around the yard. The engine's power was way too weak to make quick work of a 2-foot-diameter hardwood tree.

So, I bought a more powerful chainsaw and ensured the chain was sharp.

To decide what power level saw to buy, I erred on the side of finding a used one that was more powerful than what I had.

I did that, but in hindsight, I should have gone a little beefier for easier cutting.

I figured that learning to cut with a more moderate saw was the way to go. I found a used Sthil MS250, which gave me a chance to practice saw safety, chain sharpening and simple maintenance without ruining a brand-new saw.

Even though this one was a little underpowered, the Sthil MS250 was a huge improvement over the Husqvarna I had, and it made the rest of the project much more efficient and enjoyable.

So, as far as engine specifications for cutting and bucking firewood and felling smaller trees, I would suggest getting a chainsaw with a minimum of an 18-inch bar and an engine with 3.0 horsepower and 45.0 cc displacement.

The Sthil MS250 fit this and made work much easier. I also bucked a black locust that had fallen on its own in the woods behind our house. With a sharp chain, the saw did exactly what I had hoped for.

With what I know now, I would probably go with something a little more hefty. Something like the Husqvarna 455 Rancher or the Sthil MS271 Farm Boss.

Additional Thoughts on The Best Chainsaw Brands

I recommended Husqvarna and Sthil because they have a history and track record of high-quality products.

Sthil is only sold through local dealers, so it’s harder to purchase. However, the service you get for maintenance and fixes is the best.

They are a German-based company, but they also manufacture in the United States, which, in my opinion, is always a plus.

Husqvarna is a high-quality product line and is much easier to purchase online. You can still buy through official dealers, but they seem to have better availability all around.

Husqvarna is a Swedish company, and most of their saws are made in Sweden or the US, with parts made worldwide.

There are many other good brands available. Ultimately, choose the saw that fits your needs and budget best while offering the power you need to get the job done safely and efficiently.

I found my chainsaw used on Facebook Marketplace from a local arborist and saved about 50%. It was well cared for and had a new chain and carburetor.

Because Sthil (and Husqvarna) are so well built, they are generally easily repaired. So, if you find a used chainsaw that's not in perfect shape, you may even find it a little cheaper.

So far, I've only had the opportunity to harvest trees felled by a professional company or those that have fallen naturally in the woods.

My goal is to get comfortable with felling, but that will need to wait until I get the opportunity (and confidence).

In the meantime, Hurricane Helene has provided ample opportunity for me to practice in my own yard and that of neighbors and friends.

Tip #4: Use the right Kind of Axe(s)

I am a big tool geek (honestly, this is my favorite part of the firewood topic), so selecting axes has been a fun project.

There are so many axes to look for and choose from, and knowing where to start can be overwhelming.

After going through a few types, I have settled on two axes for harvesting and splitting firewood.

One axe for limbing and splitting kindling (not a hatchet), and a second for splitting rounds into usable firewood.

I like nice tools and have expensive taste, but I tempered myself and bought something in the medium range of axes.

Buying the most expensive axes makes no sense, especially if you are just starting out.

The more important consideration is what kind of axe(s) you need.

My first recommendation is a boy’s axe.

I found this axe style best for limbing, making kindling and splitting small to medium pieces of wood. It typically has a 2.25 lb head with a handle length of 24 to 28 inches.

Generally speaking, the weight of a hatchet is 1.25 pounds. It is only good for making kindling and makes splitting small to medium pieces of wood difficult.

At 2.25 pounds, the boy’s axe is heavier but not too heavy to wield.

The weight also makes for easier splitting of medium-sized firewood, heavy enough to clean up and limb a fallen tree, large enough to comfortably take camping/backpacking and small enough to cut up kindling.

It's a good all-around axe and a great one to have in your firewood-splitting arsenal.

A US company called Council Tool makes my favorite boy’s axe.

The handle is made of hickory and is thin enough to grip well. It also comes relatively sharp, although it is best to sharpen it to get the best efficiency.

I haven’t sharpened mine, but it still splits well. This axe is affordable, made in the USA and with care, it has held up great.

The second recommendation is a splitting axe or maul.

This is a much heavier axe that makes splitting rounds easier. Usually, the weight of the cutting head is about 5.5 to 6.5 pounds, with a head shape perfected for splitting large rounds.

I opted for a lighter splitting axe with a 5.5 head, which performed excellently. Even with oak rounds approximately 24 inches in diameter and 15 inches long, usually on the third or fourth strike, it would split down the middle.

The lighter weight was also easier on my body. It allowed me to chop longer before needing a rest.

The splitting axe I use is the Sthil Pro Spitting Axe.

The one I bought has a head made by the German company Ochsenkopf, which has been around a long time and makes quality axes.

I also like the steel sleeve. This helps with the longevity of the handle by protecting it from overstriking, something an unseasoned firewood chopper like me does more than I like to admit!

This one is a great mid-range axe, and as long as I care for it properly, I will never need to buy another.

Cheaper axes (usually with fiberglass handles) are also available from big box storess.

This could be a smart option if you are new to splitting firewood and wish to get your skills up to par before making a bigger investment.

Final Thoughts On Harvesting, Cutting and Splitting your Own Firewood

Chopping your own firewood is a great way to exercise your body and is very rewarding.

Everyone has their own style of starting firewood for their stove or fireplace. Ensuring your firewood cuts are perfectly sized for your needs and optimally seasoned has its ultimate reward when the cold comes along and the fire warms the heart of your home.

I hope you make an effort to try it out, and if anything, you will begin to learn skills that will allow you to be more self-reliant and self-sustaining.

For more thoughts and tips on all things firewood, see: